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| grindking33 |
 Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 10:42 pm |
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Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 445
Location: North MF Carolina
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Is anyone here experienced in sheet metal for a ramp surface? I know a guy 3 hrs away, who has a vert ramp with 1/4 steel as the final layer. I have not seen it or how it's built, but would expect the sheets to be very heavy and expensive. I'm trying to cover a 3' high 8' wide quarter. Painted with epoxy floor paint & tarped. I'm on my second layer of 1/4" oak plywood within a year and a half, Which sucks balls having to replace.
Just wondering how thick or thin I can go with the sheets. I've heard anything from 1/4" to 20 guage steel. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, GK33 |
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| joem |
| Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 12:08 pm |
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Joined: 28 Mar 2009
Posts: 39
Location: NC
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grindking33 wrote: Is anyone here experienced in sheet metal for a ramp surface? I know a guy 3 hrs away, who has a vert ramp with 1/4 steel as the final layer. I have not seen it or how it's built, but would expect the sheets to be very heavy and expensive. I'm trying to cover a 3' high 8' wide quarter. Painted with epoxy floor paint & tarped. I'm on my second layer of 1/4" oak plywood within a year and a half, Which sucks balls having to replace.
Just wondering how thick or thin I can go with the sheets. I've heard anything from 1/4" to 20 guage steel. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, GK33
I work with steel for a living and have my ramp covered in 18ga steel. Buy two 4x8 sheets of G60 or G90 18ga steel and you won't have to worry about covering your ramp again anytime soon. Put roofing felt under the steel to keep it from sweating. Use 1 1/2" #10 self tapping pan head screws (or other steel to wood pan head screw) to attach every 8 inches along the edges. Finally, tape over your seams and screw heads with 2" wide Gorilla Tape. It will probably run you about $170 ($85 each sheet) for the two sheets of steel, but you may find it cheaper. Skate and enjoy. |
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| grindking33 |
| Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 2:12 pm |
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Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 445
Location: North MF Carolina
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| joem, Thank you so much. I had almost given up on this thread. Peace, GK33 |
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| joem |
| Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 2:30 pm |
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Joined: 28 Mar 2009
Posts: 39
Location: NC
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| We are in the same state, so if you aren't too far out, I can probably hook you up with a pretty good deal from one of my steel guys. Let me know where you are and I will see what I can find. If you aren't too far away from zip 28001, you can skate my ramp and see if you like it. It has steel covered transitions and old skatelite flats. |
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| grindking33 |
| Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 10:47 pm |
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Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 445
Location: North MF Carolina
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| joem, I've been quoted around $75 a sheet for 16 guage. I could get it cheaper if I drove about 20/30 mins from here. I was just wondering if anyone here had used steel before. I would love to come check out your ramp, just don't get to Albemarle much. I'm about 20 mins from Greensboro. The steel hook up would probably cost more after I added my crappy gas mileage, so that's out. Thanks for the offer though. Next time we head south on 220, I'll let you know. I may can check it out then. Thanks for the advice, If I have any more questions I'll hit you up. Later, GK33 |
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| moondogtn |
| Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 9:59 am |
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Joined: 12 Dec 2008
Posts: 33
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| Good advice about the gorilla tape and felt paper....I wish someone would have told me that. I countersunk all my screws which is a major pain because it doesn't always work out just right. When I add screws, I will try it with the self tapping panhead. Will that work on a halfpipe without you feeling the screws while riding??? |
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| joem |
| Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 1:35 pm |
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Joined: 28 Mar 2009
Posts: 39
Location: NC
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moondogtn wrote: Good advice about the gorilla tape and felt paper....I wish someone would have told me that. I countersunk all my screws which is a major pain because it doesn't always work out just right. When I add screws, I will try it with the self tapping panhead. Will that work on a halfpipe without you feeling the screws while riding???
No, you will still feel them, just not as much. The best thing to do is weld all the seems (if you have 16ga+ steel), but welds can come apart, so I would still tape over the seams to keep sharp edges at bay. If you can hit 2x4's or whatever your cross braces are, countersink your screw heads and tape your seams, you probably won't mind the slight bumps unless you are used to skating indoor skatelite or crete. We skate DIY stuff most all the time, so the bumps aren't really a big issue. |
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| Dthraco |
| Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 12:51 am |
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Joined: 25 Jun 2010
Posts: 9
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All the ramps at the old Houston Skatepark were covered with Metal. If you don't countersink the screws right they become razor blades when you fall and slide. Also, a couple drops of rain and it gets scary.
Other than that Metal is FAST and slides great. |
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| slob-air |
| Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 7:36 am |
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Site Admin
Joined: 27 Oct 2001
Posts: 63453
Location: S&B HQ
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| One of the parks here did a 40 foot wide 5" tall mini with a steel surface. They countersunk the screws and then watered it several times and left it until the surface rusted up so the urethane coating they shot on it later would have something to bond to. It was a real fun ramp to ride. |
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