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| ohio |
 Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2003 8:43 am |
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Joined: 14 Nov 2002
Posts: 104
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yes base coat you are correct, i was using nazdar 2700 but it dryed in seconds in my screen i need to get a retareder. i used 5900 and 9700 but not really that much im gonna try them out soon to see how the work again. i know one thing when i used them before it too a while for the ink to really cure to a good hard finish. It drys within a hour but to really cure take about a couple days.
so any word on tensions of the mesh for this screen that donald made. Would it be possible to use the aluminum frame screwed to the wood one in this case like in the pics i posted a while back? Where did he get these dimensions. i guess well have to wait and see what comes of this. drunk you say youve done board? have any pics to post? every cut boards or pressed?
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| Drunk Engine |
| Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2003 11:21 pm |
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Joined: 11 Jul 2002
Posts: 765
Location: New Jersey!!
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Ohio, By looking at the frame and how it is dramatically contoured I would say you would want a pretty tight screen tention and for the most part the screen center is contoured to work with the dimmensions of the deck. I used the 9700 series of inks from nazdar, remember to flood coat. Your climate will dictate how much retardner and such you should add to the inks. Remember to use the squeegee's edge, and enough presure, rubber squeegees die too fast you should try to get a urethane squeegee if you start to print more. Do your best to print in a single pass on the squeegee, going back and hitting it repeatedly will cause an under image and/or a roll under nasty smear. The only decks I have photos of are Declaration from back in 1995/96.
[ This Message was edited by: Drunk Engine on 2003-03-21 23:22 ] |
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| ohio |
| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2003 10:11 am |
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Joined: 14 Nov 2002
Posts: 104
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| what im mostly interested in is is stretcheing the mesh on the frame. I was using a aluminum frame with the mesh stretched on it and screwing it to the wood but it kept turning out too loose in the center when i screwed it to the wood one. and at 35 bucks a pop the trial and error got very expensive. donald could you add anything to this or any photos? as for inks 9700 seems like its pretty good i was messing with 2700 water based but it drys very fast but super easy clean up. |
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| bruised |
| Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2003 12:32 pm |
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Joined: 24 Mar 2003
Posts: 10
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Hey, I'm a new to this forum and would like to say that I am thrilled that I finally found it. I have been wasting a lot of time over the past few weeks looking for anyone who would be willing to discuss ANY aspect of deck manufacturing or printing. Until today all I could find were some vague references and a few articles that gloss over the topics.
Actually that's an understatement. This industry is so tight I would probably have an easier time finding out how to make a fucking A-bomb! I know companies want stay in business and are protective as a result, but then again I've worked in some closely guarded professions and the sakteboarding industry seems to go way beyond that.
Anyway, it looks like I missed out on the template. I know I'm new and I don't know shit about shit, but at $7 I would have taken two!
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