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| Nick |
 Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2003 3:02 am |
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Joined: 13 Apr 2003
Posts: 260
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| Hey, what do you guys use for full deck color? Not completly painted but the bottom color itself? I have been using paint but the graphic doesnt work out well when put to use. Its sticky and wears much faster than normal decks. |
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| donald20 |
| Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2003 2:54 pm |
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Joined: 01 Aug 2002
Posts: 1075
Location: germany
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hope i understood that question right...
so you wanna do a basic color on the bottom,to make it white f.e.?
this process is called flooding and basically is a full pass with nazdar color for example.that means you print the boards shape,ok? |
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| Nick |
| Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2003 11:03 pm |
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Joined: 13 Apr 2003
Posts: 260
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| Ok, thats what I thought was done. Now should I make a screen with emulsion etched in the shape of the board or just use blank screen? Also, aproximately how many boards can be done with 1 quart of ink? |
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| ohio |
| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2003 5:54 pm |
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Joined: 14 Nov 2002
Posts: 104
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| well to me this is the hardest part of screening because you are trying to line up the board with the edges of the shape of the board you were supposed to burn in the screen. The reason i say this is hard is because it is hard to see the edges of the board thru the screen when you put the board under the screen due to the emulsion. i traced the board and tried to do what i just explained and it was impossible not only because you cant see but because of the off contact distance. when you push the screen down it seen to change where you print. I traced the board and reduce the size by about a 1/4 inch all the way around due to the rountered edges and then i burned it into the screen. It was a disaster trying to line it up and shit, but i have recently come into contact with the penns wood printer. |
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| Nick |
| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2003 6:24 pm |
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Joined: 13 Apr 2003
Posts: 260
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| I would like to know how to do this. I am fully painting the decks now. I painted the bottom of one and sanded off the sides and it turned out ok but the problem was sanding off the sides, it was pretty tough. |
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| Sk8kid83 |
| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2003 12:32 pm |
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Joined: 29 Sep 2003
Posts: 7
Location: Colorado
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| I just had a thought Nick, you could try printing the graphic before routering the edges of the board. When you print on the board, the excess will come off when rounding the edges. |
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| DunnDiego |
| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2003 9:50 pm |
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Joined: 12 Jul 2003
Posts: 2817
Location: San Diego
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Aren't most of these boards that we see like this screened on the individual veneer, and then lamenated, cut, etc.
I know this isn't the only way, the above mentioned work too. I'm just saying that's how most of the big companies are doing it now I think. |
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| Nick |
| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2003 11:49 pm |
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Joined: 13 Apr 2003
Posts: 260
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| I dont press my own decks, i buy blanks and then put my graphic on them. I have got a decent system going with the sanding the edges. |
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| Sk8kid83 |
| Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 11:59 am |
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Joined: 29 Sep 2003
Posts: 7
Location: Colorado
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| Nick, do you know of a good supplier for just the veneers that I would need to press my own boards, I have a ghetto plan worked up for a press, and I am pretty sure that it will work because I am getting the 2000psi needed. I am just unsure about my mold. Does anyone have any suggestions about either of these? |
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| Five Points Skateboards |
| Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2003 9:29 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 12 Mar 2003
Posts: 4167
Location: Columbus, OH
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Hey Nick.
Tape the edges up w/ masking tape. That's what I do. It doesn't take that long to tape it up and it's a lot easier than sanding the edges. I tape up the edges, spraypaint the bottom, and peel the tape of...perfect.
Hope this helps
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_________________
Tim
Five Points Skateboards |
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