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cant get the whole graphic to appear without tilting screen

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lovetoskate
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 1:14 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 18 Dec 2009 Posts: 38
ok so im having some problems. I have screeens that are 18"x22"

Ive been trying to screenprint them, but for some reason it wont do truck to truck. If you were to be standing at the tail of the deck to print them, you would have to tilt the screen to the left, make a pass, tilt the screen flat, make a pass, and tilt it right, make a pass for the whole image to appear.

why!? :'(
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mkelty
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 3:36 pm Reply with quote
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If your concave is real extreme, get a wider screen and make it less taut. Also a soft squeegee makes it easier to follow the contour (pull at a lower angle and let the squeegee contour to the board).

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mkelty
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 4:00 pm Reply with quote
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Oh, I almost forgot. Get as narrow a squeegee as you require. It won't work trying to use a 16" squeegee in an 18" frame if your graphic is 8 inches wide. You need the screen to give.

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lovetoskate
Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2011 4:53 am Reply with quote
Joined: 18 Dec 2009 Posts: 38
that could be a problem. I think my squeege is medium hardness and about 12" wide. it just seems like my screen is too tight for a deck. I saw some designs on building a screen specifically that is shaped like a skateboard, but cant find it anymore. I would really like to do tip to tail, or even almost tip to tail. if the deck was 32" id like to atleast cover 28-30". Is that too much to ask? haha.

I love screen printing, and t shirts are fun, but i really have some great ideas for skateboard decks.
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pennswood
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 9:45 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 14 Sep 2003 Posts: 213
t-shirt screens are way too tight to print boards.
you can print the 20" of flat between the trucks,
and edge to edge on a 24x36 screen,
it is best to have them stretched at 10 newtons.
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lovetoskate
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 2:03 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 18 Dec 2009 Posts: 38
I saw some custom screens on here that were built to the shape of the deck, my question with that is...... how do you stretch the screen for it? They say to start stapling the mesh to the center, and then work your way out, but how do you know if your getting 10 newtons?

i really need to do some full graphics, and im getting bummed out that I cant, I've designed some really nice things Id like to put on my decks
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mkelty
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 2:16 pm Reply with quote
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Joined: 06 Oct 2006 Posts: 3644 Location: Springfield, OR
Like I said before in the color separation thread, and not that I'm criticizing you or calling you an idiot, but you are way out of your depth. It's great that you want to do it, and all you can do is try and learn by trial and error, or, go get some learnin' under your belt. If the school thing isn't going to work in the short term, at least learn what their textbook is, and go pick up a copy.

There are tools and techniques for all of this, but it's a lot more than your garage setup is going to allow.

Search for local print shops, ask them to let you help them out in exchange for them telling you why they do what they do. Find someone who will make screens for you, tell them 24X36 at 10 newtons, all of these are viable tips, but you have to learn what it is you don't know.

Get some learnin' on...


Last edited by mkelty on Mon Aug 01, 2011 2:23 pm; edited 1 time in total

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mkelty
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 2:20 pm Reply with quote
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...or another response I could write...


You *can* do full color graphics, you just can't so what you want to do without the right tools and knowledge.

Paper stencils, frisket, masking tape, Le Pages glue. All are 100% viable stencils for almost anything, but first you have to change your scope of work.

Grab watercolor paints. Take two colors, and opaque white and black and light brown paper to work on (i.e. the color of wood)

Start making graphics limiting yourself to these tools. Anything you can create with these tools you could create with one screen, and four color runs using any of the stencils I'd mentioned.

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lovetoskate
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 2:26 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 18 Dec 2009 Posts: 38
I can do 4 color prints on shirts with the press I have now. The screen I use for that, which I posted above, just dont get me a crisp image. I find certain parts being foggy. or almost looking like I have drop shadowing.

So you are telling me I can print edge to edge, and truck to truck by using a 24x36 screen?

would tip to tail be impossible on that one?

also, those donald20 plans, would that be better than using the 24x36? Please dont try to say im stupid, or i need to learn more. I know how to screen print, Im just having difficulties printing with the concave and curves of a deck. I am receptive to all advice and input, its not like im being ignorant and not wanting to do what has been suggested.
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mkelty
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 2:44 pm Reply with quote
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Joined: 06 Oct 2006 Posts: 3644 Location: Springfield, OR
We wrote:

t-shirt screens are way too tight to print boards
get a wider screen and make it less taut
you can print the 20" of flat between the trucks and edge to edge on a 24x36 screen
soft squeegee makes it easier to follow the contour
pull at a lower angle and let the squeegee contour to the board
Get as narrow a squeegee as you require
it is best to have them stretched at 10 newtons


You wrote:

it just seems like my screen is too tight for a deck
I would really like to do tip to tail
the deck was 32" id like to atleast cover 28-30"
I think my squeege is medium hardness and about 12" wide
how do you know if your getting 10 newtons?


It's all there, and if you don't know how to measure 10 newtons, then you're clearly missing some knowledge, right?


I'm really not trying to sound like a dick, but it's like your desire has short circuited your acceptance of the info being shared, and you're clearly missing some tools.

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