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| Ricketts |
 Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:52 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 3902
Location: Fayetteville NC
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| Yes I know this is a beat to death topic. BUT. I recently acquired a used mini ramp, needs a few things, resurfacing being one of them. So looking like 2 layers of 3/8 plywood (whats on it currently), and 1/4 sanded plywood for top layer. Opinions? This will be a outdoor, uncovered ramp. |
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| warehouse |
| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:13 pm |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 23 Jan 2004
Posts: 2014
Location: British Columbia
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Regular sanded ply splinters like hell. The sanded layer is super thin and lasts for about a dozen sessions and then it'll start to delam .
Even regular unsanded ply lasts longer. |
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| slob-air |
| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:13 pm |
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Site Admin
Joined: 27 Oct 2001
Posts: 63453
Location: S&B HQ
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| Baltic Birch or Norwegian Birch is the ever lovin' shit. Not sure how it fares in rain, but it is a magnificent riding surface. |
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| Mogs |
| Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:54 pm |
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Joined: 04 May 2009
Posts: 335
Location: North County San Diego, OG Down South country.
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Any wood structures that are going to be out in the elements need to be protected, either by a roof, covered up or a primed and painted surface. Even if the top layer of a ramp is covered with a skatelite type of surface, the under layers should be primed and painted to protect them from eventual rot. The top layers will have at least a 1/16" spacing between the sheets to allow for expansion and these gaps allow water penetration.
So at a minimum all the final top layers of the plys should be primed and painted, especially the edges where the grain and laminates are exposed. Even with a great paint job wood ramps will be a maintenance project down the road in 3 to 5 years, even less in a very damp location. Keeping it coverd (tarped) when not in use and providing good air flow to the under parts of the ramp to help dry out any damp spots will extend the eventual need to fix it back up.
Allowing for a minimal slope so water drains off the ramp and does not puddle up under the layers can also be a great deterrant to rot and weathering.
Painted, sanded birch makes a great outdoor surface and indoors the birch can go naked or just have a clear satin sealer applied.
Good Luck... |
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Owner Mogulman Skates
Owner DownSouthSkates |
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| gogomouse1 |
| Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:20 pm |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 5842
Location: vegas
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I had to look and see where you live....... North Carolina? Eeep! Lots of moisture there.
If you can get ahold of one of those paint sprayers, you can coat the sides and bottom of the ramp quickly and easily. Surface? I don't know- I never successfully built many ramps- in humid Miami, I didn't see the point- to much upkeep and $$$$$ . I just skated other's ramps instead.  |
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| slob-air |
| Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:24 pm |
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Site Admin
Joined: 27 Oct 2001
Posts: 63453
Location: S&B HQ
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| If there's tons of moisture, treat the frame and underlayers and use steel for the top layer. Let the steel be exposed to the elements for a week until it rusts, sand it, clean it off and then paint it with a urthane based paint. |
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| gogomouse1 |
| Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 5:13 pm |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 5842
Location: vegas
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uugghhh.
If I had a dollar for every ramp I've seen painted with Latex house paint........ sloooooow to skate on, especially in the heat. |
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| Mogs |
| Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:35 am |
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Joined: 04 May 2009
Posts: 335
Location: North County San Diego, OG Down South country.
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Yeah, latex is soft and slow. An epoxy style paint like you would use for a concrete floor has a harder finish to it and cheaper than "skate paint".
We used a clear urethane or spar varnish for ours when it had masonite for the top layer. The hardened top of masonite is pretty slick so we used a "satin" finish spar varnish and ended up with the desire grip on the surface, and it helped to protect the masonite from the elements.
I've never used marine ply for any ramps, so I wonder how much that is cost wise vs the birch? I would think that comes in the correct thickness and with a sanded surface on one side. |
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Owner Mogulman Skates
Owner DownSouthSkates |
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| PAWN |
| Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:03 am |
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Joined: 06 Jul 2005
Posts: 4175
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| kingpat |
| Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:42 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 15 Oct 2001
Posts: 2519
Location: richmond, va
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| metal all the way. you have the same conditions down there as we do. metal rules. the only bummer is when it gets super hot, but you porbably won't want to be skating in 100 degree weather anyways. |
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