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tip to tail..

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Five Points Skateboards
Posted: Thu May 26, 2005 10:17 am Reply with quote
ORDER OF THE SKULL ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 12 Mar 2003 Posts: 4167 Location: Columbus, OH



basically. I used one 2X10. cut the frame out of it. Used the other piece (jig frame) as the jig sides. put some crossbeams in and added dowel rods for registration. does that make sense?

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Five Points Skateboards
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stoney66
Posted: Thu May 26, 2005 10:53 am Reply with quote
Joined: 05 Jul 2004 Posts: 209 Location: Cola, SC
OK - I gotcha.. Are you using simple hinges like from Lowes' or jiffy hinges of some type?
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skinny
Posted: Sat May 28, 2005 7:34 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 12 Sep 2004 Posts: 2706
Larry,
I really dig this!
good job.-Milt
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SaintMAYHEM
Posted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 11:15 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 03 Jan 2010 Posts: 4
None of the Images Show can you Repost them Please?




stoney66 wrote:
So who here is actually using bent screens? Well, I decided to give it a go...













Love how it fits the decks just right!!



What a bitch it was streching this thing. Should be printing something within the next week or so (need to build a jig to hold this thing). Man what a monster!! I used the Donald20 plans, with some alteration for the decks we are using. I'm getting a friend to CNC two of these for my registration:




Hopefully it will all work. Anyone else doing anything like this? I know Trashcan hooked it up w/ a chair backing, but is anyone using this style of screen? How is printing on something this big?... I need longer arms.

~larry

~Flatbottom Skateboards~
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kc_curtis
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 1:15 am Reply with quote
Joined: 07 Feb 2008 Posts: 28
Here is my first attempt at curved screens....

Looking from the hinged end, the screen is locked into place over a deck...



from the clamped end...



Deck mount system with dowel rods...



The finished product. A bit of work on the screen and some more practice and the fun begins!



Last edited by kc_curtis on Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:38 pm; edited 1 time in total

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hank1113
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:25 am Reply with quote
Joined: 30 Apr 2009 Posts: 3639 Location: Richmond Va
nice! I built a tip to tail screen from the DIY plans on the net but it is too short for my liking. gonna make it longer and wider and then attempt to burn an image.

at the moment I am making a rig just for doing tail or nose graphics. I dig the older style prints with separate images on the nose and tail. I plan on doing the tip to tail again after I get done playing around with my nose/tail rig.

hank

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kc_curtis
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:44 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 07 Feb 2008 Posts: 28
Hank, I agree on the length, needs more room at the ends, I am going to add about 4 to 6 inches to my next one. My width is 13 inches and seems to be good. When I lock my frame over a deck (I made curved screen frame using the decks I was printing as a stencil for the curved parts) it is tight every where on the deck with the exception of about a half inch from the edge of the deck where it sits about a quarter inch above the deck...

I used the cheap speedball ink for my first run, now I am going to move to Nazdar 2700. Any tips on how to get the ink to flow better (mixture ratio??) and be more glossy?

I know my technique for spreading the ink was lacking, I found some great info last night on proper direction, etc.

I also have an issue with ink getting on the bottom of my screen so I have to wipe it off prior to doing the next deck? Is this a common problem?

Thanks Hank,

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hank1113
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:56 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 30 Apr 2009 Posts: 3639 Location: Richmond Va
with the 2700 being water based you have to flood your print area in between pulls or it will dry super fast. I dont use anything to thin it since I only do 10 boards or so at a time. as I do more I will be adding thinner to keep it from drying. as far as increasing the gloss, I am not sure what to tell you. some of the other nazdar inks are glossier but require more effort and what not to clean them up. I like the 2700 since it is quick to clean and not to pricey!


Last edited by hank1113 on Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:59 pm; edited 1 time in total

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hank1113
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:59 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 30 Apr 2009 Posts: 3639 Location: Richmond Va
kc_curtis wrote:


I also have an issue with ink getting on the bottom of my screen so I have to wipe it off prior to doing the next deck? Is this a common problem?



that is from your screen touching the deck. set it up .25" above the deck you are screening, grip the squeegee by the blade and have at it. it takes some time to get use to but it can be done. you may have to experiment with screen tensions to get it to where you can screen "easily" but have enough tension to keep the detail. I get my flat screens stretched at "low" tension (8 newtons) and after a few runs they work pretty good.

hank

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kc_curtis
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:36 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 07 Feb 2008 Posts: 28
The way I have my "rig" set up now, when the screen is clamped, it is stretched tight over a deck, then I have to hold down on the frame, release the clamps and quickly lift the screen off the deck.....surely this could not be causing me any problems [he says laughing].

If I don't clamp the screen down over the deck, it only rests on the deck in the very center, and my art is off to one edge...would I be better off not using the clamps? (I know, just try it right??? LOL)

Also, do I need to "bake" the decks after they are inked to set the ink in the wood?

And on the frames being longer... would you just continue the angle of the tail/nose, or would you flatten it out? I am thinking just continue the angle on down a few more inches but that could get "interesting" with adjusting the setup for that tall of a screen?

Thanks Hank, and your avatar makes me hungry!!!!

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