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tip to tail..

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ivescreenedforless
Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 11:40 am Reply with quote
Joined: 30 Sep 2007 Posts: 150
kc_curtis wrote:
The way I have my "rig" set up now, when the screen is clamped, it is stretched tight over a deck, then I have to hold down on the frame, release the clamps and quickly lift the screen off the deck.....surely this could not be causing me any problems [he says laughing].

If I don't clamp the screen down over the deck, it only rests on the deck in the very center, and my art is off to one edge...would I be better off not using the clamps? (I know, just try it right??? LOL)

Also, do I need to "bake" the decks after they are inked to set the ink in the wood?

And on the frames being longer... would you just continue the angle of the tail/nose, or would you flatten it out? I am thinking just continue the angle on down a few more inches but that could get "interesting" with adjusting the setup for that tall of a screen?

Thanks Hank, and your avatar makes me hungry!!!!


Hey Curtis, I just want to toss my 2cents in here.

Just like printing Tshirts or anything else you need a little off contact. You only want the screen to make contact where the squeegee is applying pressure and then it snaps back up leaving a nice clean print. You could still use the same setup but just put something under the ends of the frame to raise it up about 1/8". You don't want to mash the screen onto the deck. Too much space and you can lay down too much ink and make a mess. This is why having the right screen shape is so important.

2700 series ink will air dry fast, no need to "bake" it. A flood coat after each print is very important or you will clog your screen with dry ink. You may need to go with a higher mesh count, although without thinning it it's not too runny.

If you extend the screen I would just keep the same angles. Obviously this would call for some rig adjustments.

Just keep messing with it and posting on here with your questions and results.
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kc_curtis
Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 10:28 am Reply with quote
Joined: 07 Feb 2008 Posts: 28
Thanks Hank and Ivescreenedforless! I am going to do the height adjustments with the current screen and then build a new frame as stated above. I don't know what I was thinking having my screen laid tight onto the deck for printing but....now I know better thanks to you kats and HeroSk8 who has been a totally kool kat! He gave me a ton of screen and some capliary film....I can't use the film on the curved screens but it will be nice on any flat screens for between the truck only prints.

Probably a week or so before I make the new screen but I am hoping to make height adjustments to current setup and go at it again this week / weekend.

I'll keep you updated.

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Terry Synnott
Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 6:47 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 13 Oct 2004 Posts: 95 Location: New Bedford, MA
Your board looks really nice. I built a similar setup for doing full board graphics but I haven't tried it out yet. I ended up just modifying the curves of the bent screen to match the double-kick freestyle decks I was doing.

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hank1113
Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 7:11 am Reply with quote
Joined: 30 Apr 2009 Posts: 3639 Location: Richmond Va
how are you exposing your screens? would like to see that.

Zarosh (http://www.platipusskateboards.com/) hit me up on facebook and dropped a nice tip... said to coat your films in mineral spirits to get them to stick to the screens... squeegee off the excess... havnt tried it or picked his brain about it but since he is doing a ton of of tip to tail prints for consolidated I am sure it works once you figure it out!

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Terry Synnott
Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 4:32 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 13 Oct 2004 Posts: 95 Location: New Bedford, MA
For burning screens, I always use spray adhesive. I put my first deck in the jig, place the transparency directly on the deck where I want the image to go, spray it with some spray adhesive, and then lower the hinged screen onto it. Then after screening the first color, I burn the second screen by the same process.

I can't figure out how to post any photos here so here's a link to my Facebook page of some of the freestyle decks I've been doing. I learned a lot reading the posts here.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid...&l=2498298afc

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kc_curtis
Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2010 1:44 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 07 Feb 2008 Posts: 28
Hank, exposing is still a bit of "Trial and Terror" on my end. HeroSk8 exposes his in the direct sunlight. I have tried photo studio lights (which I left on too long and burnt the emulsion and had to try again, but the direct sunlight method worked great, and with a bit more experience with the timing I think it will be best if outdoor conditions are right as far as weather goes.

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hank1113
Posted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 8:10 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 30 Apr 2009 Posts: 3639 Location: Richmond Va
new aluminum frame. just made it tonight. I didnt do the welds. my buddy James hooked me up...









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