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outlawkayaker |
Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 7:01 pm |
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Joined: 07 Dec 2008
Posts: 3
Location: Tennessee
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I am installing skatelite on a halfpipe I am building. I have read that you should install it on a hot sunny day, to make sure skatelite is expanded from the heat. If not it will buckle at the seams when it warms up. My problem is it is now winter and I cant wait until summer to surface my ramp.
Does anyone know the correct spacing you should use when installing skatelite outside at 45 to 55 degree.
Thanks |
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boss |
Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:16 pm |
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Joined: 19 Nov 2007
Posts: 227
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is this Rob? The gaps of the skatelite on my halfpipe (in winter) are about the thickness of a quarter. |
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outlawkayaker |
Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:40 pm |
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Joined: 07 Dec 2008
Posts: 3
Location: Tennessee
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Thanks, for the advice. After posting this a read that you could wet the skatelite with water and that would expand it before you install it.
No my nanme it Todd
Thanks again |
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boss |
Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 5:31 pm |
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Joined: 19 Nov 2007
Posts: 227
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hey Todd, where about in Tn are you?
I'm just outside Nashville. |
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outlawkayaker |
Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 5:48 pm |
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Joined: 07 Dec 2008
Posts: 3
Location: Tennessee
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avenger-57 |
Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 5:51 pm |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 06 Nov 2005
Posts: 6183
Location: Virginia Beach
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hit up simshardcore, he put some on his ramp too. |
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simshardcore |
Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:55 pm |
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Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 6816
Location: Virginia Beach still has no waves!
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I just used the screws... left a nice gap and I've never had any buckling. |
_________________ Hello, it's me!
ask the doctor wrote: why is it the good guys die and the assholes live on...just a shame is all. a damn shame. skateboarding sucks. who cares. |
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medallions |
Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 12:44 am |
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Joined: 04 Sep 2007
Posts: 240
Location: northern so. cal.
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the objective to installing in high temps is so it dont crack when sheeting round-wall and mobius like blends through hips and waterfall sections. I personally use 2 16penny common driver nails(cuz all the coins just bought the brew) on each adjacent side,6-8" in from the corners. thats ideally the maximum gap, but you can get away with a c-hair more. remove a nail on either side to adjust and split differences. if it gets too close on one corner,run it and put a blade through it later.remember when starting to tack it and screw it down always go "up the gut". 1 or 2 rows up the middle of the sheet. we sheeted the big dc vert ramp in vista very low humidity, hot summer days. and a certain PAIN in the ass boss thought since california has no humidity compared to the south,that he would save time and boost profits by NOT leaving any gap. that shit buckled up badly in less than a week. one more thing if you can get them a commercial , or drywall supply shop sells 1 3/8" drywall laminating screws, its a #12 shank. the best for holding down sk8lite, period. Grabber makes the best ones, the heads strip easily in the chinese,generic ones. hope that im passing on useful info. well , if not to you ,someone else might need the knowledge. |
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